Agra

So we went to Agra this last weekend. Saw the Taj, saw Red Fort, yadda yadda yadda. It was big it was beautiful it was stunning. Did you expect something else? Open up your thesaurus and look up the word "spectacular." Done? That's what it was. I painted the picture, I set the scene, you were practically there.

You are dropped off as close as they allow and hop on an official bus to take you the rest of the way. Walk the remaining 2 minutes to the gate. Ignore the shopkeepers, the little boys begging you to buy their postcards, the calls of "yes sir! please sir! one minute sir! come see my shop!" Pay the foreigner tax, 40x the rate of the Indian. Take a deep breath, it was your people who raped and pillaged this land anyways.

Your heart skips a beat as you approach the arched entry. There it is. The most beautiful building in the world. Mmm. All the heat in the world couldn't stop you from enjoying the moment.

A man who claims to be the gardener sees your camera and offers to show you some great places to take "nice photo." You realize too late he'll inevitably expect money. The pictures are good, and you pay him more than he deserves. Yet he still has the gaul to stare back at you in disgust.

You finally leave the grounds, waving goodbye as if expecting the Taj to wave back.

Again ignore the shopkeepers. A young boy with postcards from before pleads even more. His price drops quickly. "My name is Amit! Please. 20 rupees!"

After lunch, Pizza Hut of all places, head to the Agra Red Fort. Even if you wanted sunglasses, a hat, peacock fans, postcards, and other diddly doo-dads, ignore. You'll just get swamped with more. Get to the gate. No, the Taj ticket does not include entry into the Fort like you were told. Fine print is universal. Pay more foreigner tax. Take a deep breath.

Smile and look around. How did they carve this? Wow! Cool! The tour guide offered you a great deal and he tells great stories. Your eyes meet those around you. It looks as if you and your group are the attraction. Cell phones are raised to take your picture, or rather the picture of your friend's blonde sister. Some are even less subtle.

The tour ends and your guide gives you the classic "whatever you want to give" spiel. You pay him more than he asked for at the beginning - it was a good tour. He milks you for more. Walk away. You could never give enough to deserve something less akward or disheartening.

Nahi. Nahi. No, I don't want that. Get in the taxi. Take a deep breath.

Nearly out of Agra the car stops in the traffic. A young girl sees you, your pale skin. She taps on the window. Her face and hands are dirty, her clothes look old and ratty. Five, maybe six years old? You want to look. You want to look away. In the middle of it all, turn with sad eyes to meet hers. Something breaks inside of you. Shrug and smile.

She forgets all about your money.

She smiles back! You make a face and she does too. The car starts to move. You want to jump out of the car and give her a hug. Damnit she deserves at least that! As she slips further away she waves. She waves!

You sit quiet for a long time.

On the outskirts of Delhi, traffic slows. A crowded jeep pulls up next to the car. Too many people in one vehicle, though not nearly as many as you've seen. You catch the eyes of a few kids inside. Smile and wave. The car begins to move again. They pause a moment and then several pairs of hands reach out the window to wave back. Grins all around. You see them 10 minutes later. They're still smiling. So you wave again.

Get back to wherever it is you call home, whether permanent or temporary. Sit and reflect.