Rishikesh and Haridwar

The world got bigger this weekend. Us interns traveled to Rishikesh Friday morning and spent two days observing cities considered Hindu strongholds. In Rishikesh and Haridwar there are few Christians. Here, millions travel for miles across the subcontinent to take a "holy dip" in the Ganges to wash away their sins. Thousands of gurus and sadhus and thousands more crippled and poor live on the street. Temples and shrines are found everywhere. Holy cows roam free. Who knows how few have ever heard the name or power of Jesus.

Rishikesh is a place nestled in a mountain valley, the mighty Ganga flowing through. The blue-green waters rush down rapids and shallows where many come to bathe. The streets are filled with beggars. Some are holy men - gurus. Some are sadhus - men who have chosen the path of renunciation for salvation. Some are poor - children, widows. Some are crippled - without feet. Blind. Useless limbs. Here Shiva, Ram, and Vishnu are worshipped among many others. It is a place where many come to learn and practice Yoga. Others to find healing with the Ayurvedic arts. Some just come for the hash.

We walked a big loop seeing some of the more important areas of the town. We saw many begging along the roads. Too many. We had shakes at Chotiwalla. A man dressed and painted blue like some god sat at the entrance, ringing a bell when one enters. We talked with several Indians to find out the significance of the place. Where we weren't asked for money we were hounded by merchants. We saw three blind men and women on some steps - their eyes glazed a haunting white. We watched from the bridge men dunking themselves in the waters of the river.

Ko and I could not resist a swim. It was hot and what better to do than to cool off in the holy Ganga. We stripped to our skivvies and jumped in. Brr. I did not feel any more holy, any more cleansed. I wonder how many come for a saving dip only to feel what I felt. We sat and prayed on a boulder as we dried off. For the people who come to be saved. I heard recently that one day the Ganga will be the world's largest baptismal font. May it be so, Lord.

We wandered off in search of a place to sleep. Off the beaten path, right next to the Ganges we stayed at Aarti Cottage. Not a foreigner in sight! Nearby were two concrete piers. Men and women came to the end of the pier to worship shrines, the waters, and to dip. We walked down to see first hand. I sat quietly as women poured water on a Shiva Lingum, undoubtedly asking for fertility - for the land, for themselves. The dock reeked of incense. Another shrine was set up for Ganesh, the elephant god. Some dunked their entire bodies into the river.

We met some young men who spoke no English but between the four of us we were able to communicate enough in Hindi to share about ourselves and what we were doing in Rishikesh. They took us to a sketchy restaurant in a completely un-touristy part of town. For Rs 85 ($1.70) total the four of us had the best dal chaval I think we've had. We left and found a parade was starting.

It happened to be the birthday of Ram. Some told us the festival also was some sort of mothers day. People were dancing as the crowds gathered around a small temple. I was quite frustrated when our new friends insisted to take us back to our hotel. I wanted to stay and watch! As soon as we got back and they had left, Ko and I took off back to the parade. Na ner na ner naaa nerrr.

What a sight! A small band and a strange music vehicle played to the dancing crowd as the parade went down the narrow streets. Women were dancing in the center. Men on the top of a vehicle that led the way. Children swarmed us as our cameras clicked and flashed. People dancing and singing in worship. Oh how overjoyed the One True God would be to be worshiped with such dancing! Near the end of the parade a man fell off the top of the lead car. I watched in horror as his limp body was rushed to help. The music slowed, the dancing stopped, and Ko and I slipped off to the guest house to reflect and pray with the others.

The next morning we woke at 5:30 to see the sunrise and the events by the river. Hundreds came to the river to worship. The scenery was quite beautiful, the river, the mountains, the rising sun. I watched more worship at the Shiva Lingum shrine on the pier. A woman spinning around with a candle in her hand. Others prostrate. Others dunking. We found a place to pray. One day God will turn this land into a land in worship of Him. The devil won't win.

After breakfast we took a Vikrum to Haridwar.

Haridwar is a beautiful place. It is considered one of the seven holiest places in Hinduism. Here the river is bounded by steps to descend into it. The Ganges has been channeled for calmer waters to dip. Millions of pilgrims come every year to dip. During the Kumbh Mela, some 100 million Hindus are expected to come searching for salvation in the waters during three months in which heaven and earth are no closer than they are in Haridwar. Somehow, this town of 200,000 hosts 30 million at the peak of the Mela.

Here we found thousands bathing in the Ganga. Huge stone and concrete bridges span the river and the canals. Temples and shrine are everywhere. More beggars. Young girls try to put the Tilak on your head and expect a few rupees if they are successful. Merchants are quick to find a foreigner. We wandered around just looking. It was very crowded. At a fork in the river a giant statue of Shiva stands, snakes climbing about his body. How fitting. Satan has not been so subtle it seems in Hinduism.

We walked through the narrow, crowded marketplaces. We ate at another veg restaurant, Chotiwalla - delicious. We were hounded by beggars when we started to hand out oranges. Edwin had to physically pull me out of the crowd. We finally made our way to the bus stand and travelled to Dehradun and to Mussoorie.

Rishikesh and Haridwar were dark places. I could very much sense the hopelessness. You could see it in people's eyes. I stood in sadness and disgust at ornate temples and shrines. You could smell it in the air. I'm still trying to sort through what I saw and what God is teaching me. I know that it will be an experience I will remember the rest of my life.