Thursday, April 30, 2009

Dodital

Last week, the four of us interns, and our good friend and eMi staff Ryan headed to Uttarkashi some 6 hours away to trek to Dodital lake. The trip was well-anticipated and we each loaded up with snack food and trekking packs (about 35-40lb each) and set off on the two day journey. As usual, words do it no justice, and images do only a bit more.

I never would have imagined how difficult it would be to hike up steep, rocky, endless paths with so little weight on my back. 40lbs. What is that? Sure, it wasn't supposed to be a walk in the park, but quickly I decided I was in over my head! But I pressed on, usually towards the end of the pack. As soon as we broke rest I prayed for another! I emptied my water bottle far too quickly and the sun beat down on us mercilessly that first afternoon.

But we finally made it to our first stop, Agora village. Only accessible on foot, this small hillside community was a welcoming site. We were led by a young man who babbled on without end about "my father this, my father that." All in broken English of course. He seemed to have a heart of gold, but he simply wouldn't stop talking! We settled at an empty government campsite and took off our shoes.

Not soon after we had set up our tents we were invited by two men to come and watch a celebration taking place in the village. Not one to miss any opportunity, I grabbed my camera and took off with two of the other guys. And what a sight to see!

In the center of an open, flat area, there sat some sort of idol. It was like a silver castle-like thing, with a beautiful red and yellow cloth draped beneath it. The whole thing was attached to two long wooden poles. Men danced around the thing, which I learned had something to do with a devi - a mother goddess. Holding hands behind each others' backs the formed a chain that grew longer as the ceremony went on. The lead man flamboyantly waved a rod with thick black hair attached to it. Women formed a similar, separate chain, the lead dancing with an ornate red and gold cloth. Around and around the idol they danced to exciting drum beats.

As the music changed, so would the dance. Crossing their legs, chanting and shouting in unison, leaning back and forth - it was a really cool line dance. Eventually about three dozen had joined in the dancing as the rest of the village - perhaps 150 people - watched.

Our friend from earlier, Abram, then got himself into a LOT of trouble. He began dancing independently in the center around the idol. He got on all fours and began hopping like a frog. He accidentally bumped the idol, nearly knocking it off its stand! The scene quickly turned into a huge brawl with several punches thrown as some tried to chastise the boy and his father while others tried to defend and calm the situation. It took about 20 minutes for the festival to resume.

When it picked back up, there was an even more interesting dance. Two men would dance with the idol, the poles resting on their shoulder. They would rock and shake it back and forth and I was convinced the thing would fall off though it never did. Men took turns until finally they carried it up to what I assume was a temple. They took off the silver casing (the castle-like thing) to reveal just a strange pyramid shape covered in more fabric. I was expecting an actual figurine idol, not just a fabric box!

Then two older men exclusively carried the thing around, bobbing with the music. I was sure they were going to break their necks they bobbed it so violently. A line formed and the men bobbed the idol onto the heads of praying devotees. They even brought out Abram to make penance! This went on for some time. My attention then turned to all the kids who were watching me take photos and for another thirty minutes it was all "one photo! one photo!"

The next morning we set off for the 16 km hike to the lake. We were up and ready to go early and all was going so smoothly until... "there is no way this is the right trail!" Somewhere we missed a turn off and were climbing up a narrow steep trail up the wrong mountain. So we backtracked... for an hour! But we found the right path and began the descent to cross the Asi Ganga stream at Bebra Gate and then ascended up the right mountain in the right direction.

16 km was what we were supposed to walk, but with the wrong turn, I figured we were looking at a 20+km day! And the climb was steep and my pack was heavy. We walked in silence most of the way and I sang hymns in my head - usually one's calling upon God's strength! And strength he provided! Every break we took re-energized me and when I felt there was no way I could go on he lifted my spirits. I can't explain it - I felt weak and inadequate for such a task. But God seemed to want me to get to Dodital and with his strength I did!

Along the way we were blessed with great views and cool breezes. The excitement built especially when we saw those mountain peaks we were going to get close to! And we made it to Dodital! The place was empty except for a couple of forest service people, a daba (cook), and a few people who ran the temple by the lake. Sadly, we weren't allowed to fish because they recently decided the lake to be sacred!

The next morning we set off for the ridge - this time with lighter packs and a special treat for the top. It took nearly two hours, following the stream up the saddle. The ridge seemed so elusive for so long! We finally made it and wow! A great view, although it was a bit gloomy. Regardless we celebrated with non other than a b**f stick! Oh boy, was it glorious!

After a nap on the top of the ridge we decided to continue along a path around another hill and up to the other side of the ridge. This was even more wearing but the view was even more spectacular! It was like dreaming of a spectacular view and anticipating it and finally getting there and going "WOW THIS IS AMAZING!" Needless to say I took hundreds of photos. Ryan's watch told us we were nearly 13,000 ft up. A friend and I wandered even further along the ridge and eyed another hill to climb. But the weather started to turn sour and we turned back. It snowed a bit while we went down. But in the valley it was so beautiful and we dipped our feet in the cold stream and napped again. Or, they napped and I took waterfall pictures!

We got back to camp and played lots and lots of cards - Presidents. We played a lot of that game throughout the trip.

The next morning Ko and I decided we wanted to go back up the ridge to try and catch it on a clearer day. We peeked our heads out of the tent at 5:30 and an hour later were off! It was a beautiful day - truly a blessing from God. We got up to the top and I can't explain how absolutely magnificent it was. The snow caps were even more stunning with the snow from the previous day and there was not a cloud in the sky. The air was clear and blue and blue gets. If you haven't yet you must check out my pictures!

We continued along that path we eyed the day before and climbed along a dangerous path. A slip to the left meant a slide down the snow for who knows how long. To the right, a short roll and then a cliff edge. Worth it. An hour or so later we had an even more stunning view of both the Yamnotri and Gangotri ranges. We rested and I took photos.

On the way back, as we neared Dodital, we met up with the other guys who were out looking for fish in the stream. I went crick'n with Matt for a ways down the stream. We played hours more Presidents and ate another hot meal at the daba.

The walk back the next day was so much better. The air was cool and most of the path down hill for a change. We stayed at Bebra Gate, played Presidents, and left the next morning. By 10:30 we were back at Sangamchatti, a small village just outside of Uttarkashi where we were picked up.

The ride back was terrible. It was windy. We got a flat tire. We were crammed tightly together. We waited an hour for road construction. We stopped to repair the tire. But we finally made it back to Mussoorie. No hill here even compares!

The trek was a fantastic experience and while I was blessed with spectacular scenery, I really felt that God really showed up. He gave me strength and reminded me that I should be more reliant on him. I can't do anything on my own, but by his strength. And he reminded me of his goodness. I prayed so hard for a clear day, and by all reasoning there was no reason for there to be one! The night was cloudy and this season rarely sees a clear sky. But like a good father with the power to do anything, he opened up the sky and gave Ko and I the most beautiful and perfect day to view those mountains. Surely no one has seen them so gloriously! It was great to fellowship and hang out with the guys I've been working with and to praise him for all the cool things we saw and felt him working in us.

God is big. Big enough to create this beautiful world and everything in it. God is strong. Strong enough to get us to the tops of the mountains even when we lack the strength and resolve to do it ourselves. And God is good. Good enough to bless us even when we don't deserve it. Like a perfect, loving father, is God.

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